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DESERT CITY · RAJASTHANA characterful desert city of a superb unconquered fort, ornate havelis, camels and the famous rat temple nearby.
Bikaner is a proud desert city in northern Rajasthan, founded in the fifteenth century and built around the magnificent Junagarh Fort, one of the few great forts of Rajasthan never conquered.
It is known for its red-sandstone palaces and carved havelis, its thriving camel country and rich snacks and sweets, and for the famous Karni Mata “rat temple” at nearby Deshnok.
Less crowded than Rajasthan’s bigger names, Bikaner rewards travellers with grand architecture and desert character, on the route towards Jaisalmer and the Thar.
The red-sandstone ramparts of Junagarh Fort at Bikaner.
Junagarh Fort was never taken in battle, which is rare among Rajasthan's forts, and because of that its palaces survive largely intact rather than rebuilt.
The city is built in red sandstone throughout, and the Rampuria havelis in the old quarter are among the finest merchant mansions in Rajasthan.
Bikaner is serious camel country, with a long breeding tradition and a national camel research centre on the edge of the city.
Karni Mata at Deshnok, about 30 km away, is the temple where rats are venerated — one of the most singular religious sites in India.

The magnificent unconquered fort.

The famous rat temple at Deshnok.

A grand red-sandstone royal palace.

An opulent heritage palace hotel.

A richly painted old Jain temple.

A lakeside palace and sanctuary.
Photos via Wikimedia Commons
Work through Junagarh Fort properly; its painted and mirrored palace rooms are the reason it ranks with the best in the state.
Tour Lalgarh Palace, the red-sandstone royal residence built in the early twentieth century on the edge of the old city.
Drive out to Karni Mata at Deshnok, where thousands of rats live in the temple and are fed and protected.
See the Bhandasar Jain temple, painted throughout and standing on the highest ground in the old city.
Eat your way through the bazaars — Bikaneri bhujia and the local sweets are sold across India for a reason.
October to March is the only comfortable season in this desert city, and it is when the Camel Festival falls.
The monsoon is brief and light here, bringing rare rain and a welcome drop in temperature.
April to June brings fierce desert heat that makes daytime sightseeing genuinely difficult; start at dawn.
🐫 The Bikaner Camel Festival in winter is a colourful time to visit — plan ahead if your dates align.
Bikaner and Jodhpur are the nearest airports.
Bikaner Junction is well connected.
About 490 km from Ahmedabad; on the route towards Jaisalmer.
For Junagarh Fort, which was never conquered and whose painted palace interiors survive intact; for its red-sandstone palaces and merchant havelis; for camel country; and for the Karni Mata temple at nearby Deshnok.
About 490 km from Ahmedabad, on the road north towards Jaisalmer and the Thar. It is a long drive, and the overnight train is the easier option for most.
Yes. Karni Mata Temple at Deshnok is about 30 km away and is the usual add-on — the temple where rats are venerated, fed and protected as sacred.
One to two days covers the fort, the palaces, the Jain temple and Deshnok without rushing any of them.
Its snacks and sweets. Bikaneri bhujia is sold across India, and the sweets from the old-city shops are worth the detour on their own.
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Published 8 July 2026
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