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Sabarmati Ashram in Ahmedabad — Hriday Kunj where Gandhi lived from 1917 to 1930, the Charles Correa museum,…
Nadiad in Kheda district — the Santram Mandir and its social network, why Gujarat calls it Sakshar Bhumi,…
Anand in central Gujarat — how the Amul cooperative began in 1946, Verghese Kurien and Operation Flood, visiting…
Beyond Rani ki Vav and Adalaj — hunting the unvisited stepwells of the Charotar, starting with Kapadvanj's Batris…
Dakor in Kheda district — the 1772 Ranchhodrai temple, the story of Bhakta Bodana and the idol from…
Pavagadh hill and Champaner — the Kalika Mata Shakti Peeth and its new 2022 shikhara, the ropeway and…
Jambughoda Wildlife Sanctuary in Panchmahal — 130 sq km of teak forest and reservoirs 25 km from Champaner-Pavagadh,…
The Alphonso belt of Valsad, Gandevi and Navsari — why this coast grows it, the April-to-June season, how…
Don Hill in Dang district — higher than Saputara and almost undeveloped, with Adivasi homestays, forest walks.
Girmal in Dang district is Gujarat's tallest waterfall at around 30 m — when it actually runs, the…
Dang district in the monsoon — Gujarat's wettest, greenest corner, Girmal and Gira waterfalls, Saputara and Don Hill.
Riding the 1913 Bilimora–Waghai narrow-gauge railway into the Dang forests — what the journey is like, checking it…
Dandi in Navsari district — why Gandhi chose salt, the 385 km march from Sabarmati, the National Salt…
Navsari — one of India's oldest Zoroastrian centres, its Atash Behram and Parsi quarter, the Meherjirana manuscript library.
Dumas beach near Surat — why the sand is dark, the evening food stalls that are the real…
Surat food, and when to eat it — locho, Surti khaman, winter ponk, undhiyu and Chandni Padva ghari,…
Bharuch on the Narmada — the ancient port of Barygaza that traded with Rome, the 1881 Golden Bridge,…
Kabirvad near Bharuch — a single banyan spreading across acres of a Narmada island, its association with the…
Rajpipla in Narmada district — the Rajvant Palace, Maharaja Vijaysinhji's 1934 Epsom Derby win, Prince Manvendra's story.
Garudeshwar on the Narmada, 12 km from the Statue of Unity — the samadhi of Tembe Swami, the…
Zarwani waterfall in the Shoolpaneshwar sanctuary near Kevadia — the stepped cascade, the forest eco-campsite.
Dahod in eastern Gujarat — the weekly Adivasi haats and how to visit them decently, the Ratanmahal sloth…
Chhota Udaipur in eastern Gujarat — what Rathwa Pithora wall paintings actually are, how to see them respectfully.
Thol Lake Bird Sanctuary, 40 km from Ahmedabad — a century-old irrigation tank turned Ramsar wetland with flamingos,…
Shamlaji in Aravalli district — the Vishnu temple known locally as Kaliyo Dev, its huge Adivasi Kartik Purnima…
Idar in Sabarkantha — climbing the granite boulder hill to its fort, temples and ruined palace, the town's…
Dev ni Mori near Shamlaji — the Buddhist stupa and monastery excavated in the 1960s, its inscribed casket…
Balaram in Banaskantha — the Nawab of Palanpur's 1920s palace, now a heritage hotel beside the Balaram-Ambaji Wildlife…
Ambaji in Banaskantha — a major Shakti Peeth whose sanctum holds an inscribed yantra rather than an image,…
Taranga Hill in Mehsana district — the 1121 Ajitnath Jain temple built by Kumarapala, the Digambar shrines and…
Vadnagar in Mehsana district — the twelfth-century torana gateway, Hatkeshwar Mahadev, Sharmishtha Lake.
Sidhpur in Patan district — streets of pastel Bohra havelis built by travelling traders, the ruined Rudra Mahalaya…
Adalaj stepwell near Ahmedabad — the 1499 five-storey vav of Queen Rudadevi, its Hindu-Islamic carving, why it stays…
Rani ki Vav at Patan — the finest stepwell in India, its 500+ sculptures, why being buried saved…
Dhordo, the gateway to the white Rann of Kutch — what the salt desert actually is, the Rann…
Bhuj, twenty-five years after the 2001 Kutch earthquake — Aina Mahal and Prag Mahal, the Kutch Museum, how…
At Mandvi in Kutch, ocean-going wooden dhows are still built by hand without blueprints — how to visit…
Shivrajpur beach near Dwarka is one of India's first Blue Flag beaches — clean water, marked swimming, snorkelling…
Khijadiya near Jamnagar is a Ramsar wetland where fresh water meets salt — Dalmatian pelicans, Indian skimmers, flamingos…
How to do the Narara reef walk in Marine National Park, Jamnagar — tides, permits, the octopus and…
Velavadar Blackbuck National Park near Bhavnagar — India's largest blackbuck herds, Indian wolves, a world-class harrier roost and…
Climbing Shatrunjaya hill at Palitana — nine hundred Jain temples, 3,500 steps, the rule that nobody may stay…
Lothal, the Harappan port 80 km from Ahmedabad — the great brick dockyard, the bead factory, the warehouse…
Dholavira, Gujarat's UNESCO Harappan city in the Rann of Kutch — its stone streets, sixteen reservoirs, the undeciphered…
A Diu island travel guide to Gujarat's Portuguese getaway — the great sea-fort, Nagoa and Ghoghla beaches, Naida…
A guide to the Little Rann of Kutch and its Wild Ass Sanctuary — the only home of…
A guide to the Kutch craft villages around Bhuj — Nirona's Rogan art and bells, Ajrakhpur block-printing, Bhujodi…
A perfect 7-day Gujarat itinerary from Ahmedabad — the Statue of Unity, a Gir lion safari, Somnath and…
The best time to visit Gujarat, season by season — winter for the white Rann and Gir lions,…
How to spend one day in Ahmedabad, India's first UNESCO Heritage City — the pol heritage walk, Jama…
The top places to visit in Gujarat — the Rann of Kutch, Gir lions, Somnath and Dwarka, Rani…
The best one-day trips from Ahmedabad — Modhera and Patan, Adalaj, Lothal, Nalsarovar, Champaner, Polo Forest and Vadodara,…
A weekend guide to Saputara, Gujarat's only hill station — the lake, ropeway and sunset points, Gira Falls,…
The best Gujarat monsoon getaways — Saputara and the Dang, the Gira, Zarwani and Hathni Mata waterfalls, and…
Plan the Dwarka to Somnath road trip along Gujarat's coast — Dwarkadhish and Nageshwar, Bet Dwarka, Shivrajpur beach,…
An honest Statue of Unity visitor guide — the viewing gallery, tickets, the Kevadia attractions, best time to…
What the Rann Utsav in Kutch is really like — the tent city, the full-moon night on the…
Ukai dam in Tapi district is a quiet weekend lake near Surat. A first-person guide to the sunset…
Chasing Gujarat monsoon waterfalls in the Dangs? Where Gira, Shankar and Zarwani run July to September, short treks,…
Visiting Akshardham in Gandhinagar? A first-person guide to the carved sandstone shrine, gardens, evening water show and the…
Planning the Statue of Unity at Kevadia? A first-person guide to the viewing gallery, Narmada dam, Valley of…
Wilson Hills near Dharampur is a quiet monsoon plateau above Valsad. A first-person guide to the forest drive,…
A first-person Surat guide to the city that cuts the world's diamonds and weaves its textiles, plus zari…
A frank Devalia Gir safari guide: how the fenced lion zone differs from the main Gir park, bus…
A first-person Champaner-Pavagadh guide: the UNESCO ruins, Jama Masjid, stepwells, the ropeway and the Kalika Mata temple atop…
Explore the Modhera Sun Temple: the Surya Kund stepped tank, Solanki carvings, the sabha mandapa and the equinox…
A first-person Dwarka pilgrimage guide: the Dwarkadhish temple flag, aarti, Gomti ghat and the boat to Bet Dwarka…
A first-person Ahmedabad street food guide: midnight feasting at Manek Chowk, the Law Garden khau galli, and where…
A first-person Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary guide near Ahmedabad: dawn boat rides, winter flamingos and pelicans, best months and…
A first-person Rann Utsav Kutch guide: full-moon nights on the white salt desert, the Dhordo tent city, Kutchi…
A first-person Laxmi Vilas Palace Vadodara guide: Indo-Saracenic grandeur, the Durbar Hall, Raja Ravi Varma art, the Gaekwad…
A first-person Tithal Beach guide near Valsad: rare soft black sand, seaside Sai Baba and Swaminarayan temples, quiet…
A first-person Saputara hill station guide: monsoon greenery, lake boating, the ropeway, sunset points and Dang tribal culture…
Gujarat textiles run from Patan's double-ikat patola to Kutchi bandhani tie-dye and mashru. A first-person guide to the…
Polo Forest in Gujarat hides medieval Hindu and Jain temples deep in the Aravalli teak near Vijaynagar. A…
The Uttarayan kite festival turns Ahmedabad's rooftops into a citywide duel of glass-coated strings and paper kites every…
What Navratri in Vadodara is really like, from free neighbourhood garba to past-midnight dandiya, told by someone pulled…
An honest first-person account of the Girnar climb near Junagadh, ten thousand stone steps to Gujarat's highest summit…
A first-person guide to Gujarat stepwells, from the carved storeys of Rani ki Vav in Patan to the…
Visiting the Somnath temple at dusk: its history of ruin and rebuilding, the evening aarti by the Arabian…
What is in a Gujarati thali, why it tastes a little sweet, where to eat the best one,…
An honest first-person guide to the Gir lion safari: permits, the best season, what sightings feel like, and…
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