A forgotten kingdom
Hidden in the Barda hills inland from Porbandar lie the evocative ruins of Ghumli, once the capital of the Saindhava and later the Jethwa dynasties between roughly the 9th and 14th centuries. The crowning glory of the site is the Navlakha temple, a grand 12th-century sun temple of golden stone — one of the largest and oldest in Gujarat — raised on a high carved plinth and adorned with sculpted elephants, deities and intricate friezes.
Nearby stand the ruins of the Vikia Vav and Jetha Vav, fine old stepwells, along with gateways and scattered remains of the vanished city. Quiet, atmospheric and little-visited, set against the wooded Barda hills, Ghumli rewards the traveller who enjoys history off the beaten track — a glimpse of a forgotten medieval kingdom.
A protected archaeological site, Ghumli is freely accessible but remote — come prepared with your own transport, water and time, and combine the trip with the Barda Wildlife Sanctuary nearby.
Carved elephants at Navlakha.
The Jethwa capital, abandoned to the hill
The Navlakha sun temple, Ghumli.
Ghumli was the capital of the Saindhava dynasty and later the Jethwas, ruling this part of Saurashtra from roughly the ninth to the fourteenth centuries.
The Navlakha temple was raised in the twelfth century — a sun temple of golden stone on a high carved plinth, among the largest and oldest in Gujarat.
Vikia Vav and Jetha Vav, two substantial stepwells, were cut to serve the city and both survive.
The city was abandoned and left to the Barda hills, which is why the ruins stand today in forest rather than in a town.
Reasons to make the time
Lost capital
A medieval capital, seat of the Saindhavas and then the Jethwas for some five hundred years.
Navlakha temple
The Navlakha sun temple is the site's crowning structure and among the oldest large temples in Gujarat.
Carved elephants
Sculpted elephants run along the temple's high plinth, carrying the building on their backs in the conventional manner.
Vikia Vav
Vikia Vav is a large and finely built stepwell, easily worth the visit on its own.
Barda hills
The ruins sit in the wooded Barda hills, which have reclaimed most of the old city.
Off the track
Very few people come, and the combination of scale and silence is what makes the place.
What to look for inside
THE CARVINGElephants
Carved elephants running along the temple's high plinth.
THE TEMPLENavlakha
The Navlakha temple, a twelfth-century sun temple in golden stone.
How to spend an hour or two
See the Navlakha temple
Start at the Navlakha temple, the site's principal structure and the reason to make the trip.
Find the elephants
Look along the plinth for the carved elephants, which run the length of the base.
Visit Vikia Vav
Find Vikia Vav, the larger of the two stepwells, and go down into it.
Explore the ruins
Gates and remains.
Sense the lost city
A vanished capital.
Enjoy the Barda hills
The wooded setting.
Sculpted detail at Ghumli.
Temple, plinth and stepwell
Ghumli’s ruins centre on the 12th-century Navlakha sun temple — a large golden-stone shrine on a high, carved plinth ringed with elephants and deities — set among old gateways and the Vikia and Jetha stepwells. The atmospheric remains of a dynastic capital, they sit quietly in the Barda hills, rewarding travellers who seek out Gujarat’s lesser-known heritage.
A protected site, Ghumli is remote — come prepared with your own transport, water and plenty of time to wander the scattered ruins of the vanished city.
See what else is nearby in our guide to Porbandar.
It is one of many — our guide to heritage sites across Gujarat covers the rest.
12th-century Navlakha temple
Carved elephant plinth
Vikia & Jetha stepwells
Ruins of a dynastic capital
When to go
Cool and pleasant — the ideal season.
Green and atmospheric after rain.
Hot and dry — start early.
⏰ Ghumli is remote — go by car with water and time; combine it with the Barda Wildlife Sanctuary nearby.
Timings & entry
- Open daytime, remote site
- Go by car; carry water
- Best in cool morning
- Allow a half day
- No entry fee
- A protected ruin
- Few facilities — come prepared
- Pair with Barda Sanctuary
Getting there
By Air
Porbandar airport (~50 km).
By Rail
Porbandar / Bhanvad railheads.
By Road
In the Barda hills, ~50 km from Porbandar.
At Ghumli
STONE & HILLS
A ruined medieval capital
What to shoot
The Navlakha temple.
Detail
Carved elephants.
Nearby
The old stepwells.
Setting
The Barda hills.
Know before you go
More to see close by
HERITAGEOld Port & City
Stone havelis & the historic harbour
PALACEHuzoor Palace
A seafront royal palace of the Jethwa rulers
BIRDSPorbandar Bird Sanctuary
A central wetland alive with migratory birds
BEACHPorbandar Beach
The city’s breezy seafront & Chowpaty
Madhavrai Temple
Popular city temples & ashrams
Bileshwar Mahadev
A hall mapping India’s saints & sages
Where to eat near Ghumli Ruins
THALIGujarati Thali
Sweet-savoury full meals.
FARSANKhaja & farsan
Crisp sweets and snacks.
STREETSeaside chaat
Snacks by the shore.
Coastal veg
Gujarati veg & fresh seaside snacks.
Ghumli Ruins FAQ
What is Ghumli?
The ruined medieval capital of the Saindhava and Jethwa dynasties, in the Barda hills.
What's the Navlakha temple?
A grand 12th-century sun temple of golden stone, the site's highlight.
What else is there?
The Vikia and Jetha stepwells, gateways and city ruins.
Is there an entry fee?
No, it's freely accessible but remote.
How far is Porbandar?
About 50 km, in the Barda hills.
Is it easy to reach?
It's remote — best by car, with water and time.
What's nearby?
The Barda Wildlife Sanctuary.
When should I visit?
October to March, in the morning.
Related places across Gujarat
STEPWELLRegional Vavs
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1Kumbhariya Marble
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Published 24 June 2026 · Updated 24 August 2026